I'm partial to three different windsavers. Please keep in mind that I haven't tried all of the ones that Gary mentioned above.
I really like the Romel self-adhesive windsavers for quick, on-the-go repairs. Under the tutelage and watchful eye of Bill Price at the 2011 Virginia Harmonica Fest, I replaced several windsavers using them. Simply peel off the backing, stick down in place, snip off the excess at the free end and PLAY! I have had no feedback regarding them, but (perhaps) no news is good news.
I also really like the "Vern Smith Valves" which are sold by Danny G at New Harmonica. See them here:http://www.newharmonica.com/shopping/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=233
These valves are made of ultrasuede, are compressed along half the length (to provide stiffness) and are waterproofed. Vern is one of the resident SlideMeister experts on all things mechanical and also the inventor of the Hands-Free Chromatic, now being manufactured by Chris Reynolds, "Builder of Stuff". Vern designed these valves but is not involved with the manufacturing and sale (AFAIK). I put a set of them on my Seydel Chromatic Deluxe. I also waxed the reed plates, per Vern's instructions. The combination of those valves and waxing gave me a chromatic that has not had any problem with sticking valves. I can pick it up and play it cold without a problem, and I'm a "wet" player. I "discovered" that using a 1/8inch stirring straw which has been flattened on one end makes putting these valves on and in place very easy to do. I used Vern's recommended adhesive, G-S Hypo Cement. It takes a very small dot of glue to hold the windsaver in place, and it dries quickly.
I have not outfitted a chromatic totally with Danny G's newest windsavers, but I do have a set of them. I got them to try half-valving on a diabolical harp. They work fine, so I'm sure they will work fine on a chromatic. The only drawback (if it is a drawback) is that the recommended contact cement requires a 24-hour drying time. I'm not sure if a faster drying cement can be used. There is a cautionary note in the instructions to NOT use cyanoacrylate based fast-acting adhesives (Super Glue) because it will "melt" the material used. (Uncharacteristically, I haven't tried it for myself.) These valves come in various thicknesses, so you will have to experiment to determine which thickness is best for you.
Regardless of the windsaver, I think Vern's suggestion of waxing the reed plate should also be used. The combination of "new age" windsavers with reed plate waxing will greatly reduce, if not totally eliminate your windsaver problems. I bought one can of Johnson's Floor Paste Wax, which is a lifetime supply. I use a non-shredding cotton makeup applicator to put on the wax, and then buff it until it shines. It really takes a minute quantity of wax per reed. Just make sure to not glob it on and get it in the reed slot. (You knew THAT already!)